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What would Japan do when expats suffered?

In and after Brexit, a vast majority of British residents and some people around in Europe are expected to suffer. Among those, the things will hit worst to the EU nationals that are living and/or working in the UK and British expatriates in Europe, totalling some 5 millions. Their future is very uncertain to say the least. Chances are they will lose both the job and residency, once the UK has withdrawn from the EU. The leading politicians in the UK have made no promise or given no assurance at the time of writing, a month after the referendum. Some hawks have even made a statement of dismissal of anything hopeful.

A few of my friends of British nationals that live in Europe are advocating keeping their status and rights. I was then asked what would happen if a similar thing happened in Japan?

That is an interesting question, if hypothetical. This is an answer from me, a Japanese expatriate residing in the UK.

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Static ropes for climbing

Climbers in general are, unlike dynamic ropes, not main users of static ropes. The predominant use of static ropes is industrial use, such as, in a work environment of tall buildings, towers (oil-rigging etc) and for ships and tree-climbing. Within sports, apart from marine sports like sailing, it is heavily used in caving and canyoning.

After all, to climb something ground-up, which is arguably what climbing is all about, climbers vitally need dynamic ropes to absorb a shock in potential falls. Even though there is some use for static ropes in climbing as summarised in the text, its use is somewhat limited, though you really want one when you do.

For that reason, the knowledge about static ropes by climbers, as well as stocks of them in climbing shops, tends to be limited, whereas a large number and variety of static ropes are available in the market, which can be confusing. Here is my attempt to summarise what is the feature to look for, and what sort of models are available as of 2016 in the market.

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Cross-loading on knots

Image of Bowline knot and standard and cross-loads

Cross-loading — this word may give a chill in the spine of climbers. It is a real terror, be it with a karabiner or knot. In the industry they adopt the simple and very straightforward solution for this. Just use super-strong metal links, a.k.a., absolute bombproof steel maillon rapides, wherever in suspect.

In climbing, whereas the same approach is indeed recommended in some cases like a group activity of abseiling or bottom-roping, the weight, bulkiness and awkwardness in use of steel maillons put off most, understandably and justifiably in many cases. Instead, climbers usually use either a climbing-rated (aluminium) karabiner or knot to bear with cross-loading. We climbers know it is not ideal, but we are also somehow confident they are strong enough for our purposes.

But how confident are you?

I have a look at this issue in this post, along with a recently created video.

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Jiu Jitsu or Jujutsu — Romanisation of Japanese

A friend of mine, who is a very experienced martialartist in a few disciplines, including Jiu Jitsu (Jujutsu, Jujitsu, Ju Jutsu), asked me what is the appropriate spelling of Jiu Jitsu in alphabet, referring to the following post by some one, who seems to be in favour of "Jujutsu"

I would say the author's claim is factually corrrect mostly, though is incorrect at one point and contains points I don't know about. Here I am presenting my view.

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How to keep the hands warm in winter-climbing

Image:Gloves for winter activity

Extremities or fingers sometimes get cold during winter climbing. The inevitable requirement in winter-climbing of dexterity with hands does not go well with your wish to keep them warm. Winter climbers somehow must find a solution, which works for you, keeping a good balance in between.

Here I am explaining the principle and theory behind it and the practical tips I have found over the years, which have been either deduced from or backed up with the theory. Have functional hands even in cold, and enjoy glorious winter-climbing!

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AlphaGo—Marvels of Artificial Intelligence for go

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A stage during the fifth match of Lee Sedol vs AlphaGo

Very recently a shocking news hit the headline: one of the best go players in the world lost by 1-4 against a go-playing software. Here is the related history and what I thought of about it.

History of artificial intelligence (AI)

Artificial Intelligence, or AI, has been in people's imagination for ages. One of the most famous and first AIs in novels is HAL 9000 in Arthur C. Clarke's Space Odyssey series, starting from 2001: A Space Odyssey.

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Invitation to rock climbing in Scotland

Scottish winter climbing is world-famous like Ben Nevis North Face. Then how about (summer) rock climbing?

I had very little idea about that before I moved to Scotland, except for a few stories like Old Man of Hoy and Cuillin. Having experienced (some of) them now, I have to say I am mightily impressed. This post is meant to be an introduction for Scottish rock for southeners to get an idea!

I guess a guy's comment in the UKC-forum discussion about the best xxx routes in the country summarised it well…

Unleash the Beast

A sharp end at am I. The terrain is continuously overhanging, and so is energy sapping. I must move quickly, shutting out the fear for the unpredictability.

With a little momentum I reach for a rounded little bulge above, expecting it to be decent enough at the back to hold. No, it's not! It is too rounded.

Take!

… I investigate what went wrong and what to do as a climber, which may make climbing a little safer as a bonus.

First taste of Dolomites in 2015 summer

Dolomites — allegedly one of the best trad-climbing venues in Europe. A meet by Bowline Climbing Club was held there in the end of this summer. I had a chance to participate it for a few days, then further climbed on after the meet, with another visiting friend of mine.

It was most heart-warming to be reunited with my good old friends of the BCC. And the overall experience was priceless! The best was…

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